Apo Wang-Od is the oldest tattoo artist in the world. At 108 years old, she has been doing the batok, the traditional hand-tapped tattooing, since her teens.
We headed into the mountains of the Philippines to her remote village of Buscalan to meet Apo and hopefully get her signature tattoo.
We started in Manila and took a 12-hour bus to Bontoc, where we got a Jeepney for 1 hour to Bugnay. There, we met our guide Francis. From there, we hiked 3.5 miles to her Village. We spent two nights in the village waiting to meet Apo. While we were waiting, we got tattooed by her nieces. Her nieces have learned the technique from Apo.
After two days in the village of Buscalan, we were able to meet Apo Wang-Od and get her signature tattoo, three dots. The three dots symbolize the continuation of the traditional Kalinga tattooing art form across three generations.
Here you will find all the information you need to plan your trip to meet the legendary Apo Whang-Od.
- Transportation
- Cost
- Packing List
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Bontoc, Philippines
- Buscalan Village
- Map of Important Locations
FAQ’s
A geometric design is drawn using a piece of grass dipped in the ink, a mix of charcoal and water. Then, a thorn from a Pomelo tree is dipped in the ink and hammered into the skin using two bamboo sticks.
Yes, a guide is necessary. We found Francis through the Tattood By Apo Whang-Od Facebook group and highly recommend him. After two days of waiting, we could not extend our stay any longer, but Francis persuaded Apo to tattoo us. We were the only two people to get a tattoo that day.
Here is the complete cost breakdown.
No. You won’t know if she’s tattooing until you arrive. During our visit, she attended a family reunion and returned the next night. We extended our stay to wait. One person waited three days, so be flexible.
No, credit cards are not accepted. They did take PayPal because we were desperate. They had to call a friend who had an account, so don’t rely on it. Some souvenir shops accept G-Cash, but set up your account in advance, since cell service is needed for registration.
There is no cell service, but several areas in the village offer paid wifi. The connection supports basic internet service, but don’t expect to be able to stream.
No. The last ATM is in Bontoc.
Absolutely. Even just seeing the village and meeting its people makes the trek worthwhile.
You can’t sterilize a tree thorn. Bring wipes and alcohol pads to clean it and your skin. Most people have no issues. It takes up to a year before the tattoo heals.
All of that said, I developed cellulitis on my arm from my tattoo, but I was able to go to a clinic in Bontoc and get oral antibiotics, It healed fine. Be sure your tetanus vaccine is current.
Cost Breakdown
- Bus to Bontoc (round trip): 3000 PHP
- Jeepney from Bontoc to Buscalan: 150 PHP (one way, pay driver)
- Tattoo from Apo: 300 PHP
- Thorn: 200 PHP
- Tattoo from family: 3500 – 6000 PHP (negotiable, depends on design)
- Guide: 3850 PHP (for 2 nights, including tip)
- Homestay with food: 1245 PHP (for 2 nights, including food)
- Souvenirs (shirt and sticker): 650 PHP
Packing List
- Passport photos and stickers – To put on the walls of the homestead and at the entrance to Buscalan village
- Towel – Sometimes towels are provided, but there is a possibility that one will not be available
- Toilet paper – If you are not used to Eastern-style toilets
- Gifts for the children of the Village – ie, candy, bubbles, games
- Gift for Apo – She loves red lipstick and nail polish
- Razor – If you are getting the tattoo in an area with hair
- Travel pillow and blanket – The bus can get cold
- Book/Download Media – To entertain yourself while you are waiting for your turn
- Sani wipes/Alcohol Pads – To clean your skin and thorns before the tattoo
- Second Skin – To put on after the tattoo
- Cash (see below)
