Apo Whang-Od, a 108-year-old mambabatok, is the oldest tattoo artist in the world. She lives in the remote village of Buscalan in the Philippines and has practiced batok, the traditional hand-tapped tattooing, since her teens.
If you’re planning to get a tattoo from Apo Whang Od, this guide explains exactly how we reached her village. I’ve included my Google map with photos showing where to catch each ride. Since we couldn’t find this info anywhere, I hope the map makes your trip smoother.
Transportation Options
The route has greatly improved over the past decade. With revenue from tourism, the village built a bridge over the river, eliminating a 30-minute hike. Road conditions have also improved.
There are pros and cons to these changes. It is great that the village has funds to make improvements to their way of life, but it is now possible to pay a lot of money for a direct shuttle from Manila, which gets you there in the morning and takes you back the same night.
We chose the budget option, which allowed us to experience the village and local life. We arrived on Sunday, aiming for a Monday tattoo, but Apo was away at a family reunion until the next night. Because we could stay longer, we waited. Those who took the direct Manila shuttle couldn’t wait and left without a tattoo.
Our route
1. Manila to Bontoc – Bus (12 Hours)
Cost: $52.32 Round Trip
We took a 12-hour overnight bus from Manila to Bontoc. The bus had a bathroom, and there were several stops for food and restroom breaks. Be prepared for winding roads, which can cause motion sickness.
2. Bontoc to Bugnay (Police Check Point) – Jeepney (1 Hour)
Cost: 150 PHP per person, one way. Pay the driver directly.
We took a Jeepney from Bontoc to the Police Checkpoint in Bugnay to meet our guide. The Jeepney left from the Mountain Province State University in Bontoc. If you are looking at the building, the bus you need is parked in the alley to the right. It left at 0700, 0900, and 1300, but this seemed to depend on how full the jeepney was. Our 0700 bus left around 0730.
3. Bugnay to Buscalan – Walk (3.5 miles)
Cost: 150 PHP (Tourist Tax)
We walked three miles to Buscalan and recommend this choice for the experience and savings, though others took motorbikes or vans.
Just before the bridge to the village, you stop to pay the 150 PHP tourist tax. Be sure to sign the book. This is where the road ends. Everyone has to walk the last half-mile to Buscalan. Locals use a “tram” if you’re feeling adventurous.
Important Thing to Know
We reserved three nights at a hotel in Bontoc to store our luggage. We only hiked with a small daypack, a change of clothes, and basic toiletries. See my packing list.
Be prepared to stop for coffee with locals—it can be rude to decline, but it may lengthen your journey. We even met Apo’s brother over coffee.
Now that you know how to get there, check out my guides to Buscalan, Bontoc and common FAQs.
