Buscalan Village, home to 108-year-old tattoo artist Apo Wang Od, sits high in the Philippine mountains and is only accessible on foot. We spent two days there waiting for our tattoo from her.
This is part of my complete guide to getting a tattoo from Apo Whang Od.
Where should you stay in Buscalan?
Our guide Francis arranged Buscalan Grandzion Homestay, run by Apo’s niece Anna. We found our guide in this Facebook group. We slept on provided mattresses, with sheets and blankets, and used a fan, a shared Eastern-style toilet (bring tissues), and an outlet. The fan kept us cool in June. Two nights with food and internet cost $43.79.
Where should I eat?
Watch out for extra charges. We thought our stay included all meals, but it turned out that wasn’t true. On our first night, we saw a pot of white rice, instant noodles, and watercress on the table. Since everyone was eating, we just took a little so there would be enough for the family. The next day, there was more rice available throughout the day. That night, they served more rice and crispy fish heads. I was already tired of rice, so I just had a little to be polite, but skipped the fish heads.
As we were about to leave, our guide handed us a bill for the food. We were surprised because we thought meals were included, but we were charged for noodles, watercress, and fish heads, even though we didn’t eat or ask for them. Make sure to ask your guide exactly what meals and items are covered so you don’t get caught off guard.
What is there to do in Buscalan Village?
We stayed in Buscalan Village for two nights. There isn’t much to do, so bring a book or some cards to pass the time. We walked through a rice field with our guide, Francis, but mostly just sat around, drank coffee, and waited for Apo to come back. Some parts of the village have paid wifi, but it’s not strong enough for streaming. There are a few small souvenir stands, but no restaurants.
Tattoo by her nieces
While we waited for Apo, we got tattoos from her nieces. You can pick from certain designs or even mix them. The women in Buscalan have geometric tattoos on their arms, with older women also tattooed on the chest and neck. Most men have no tattoos.
My tattoo was 75 USD. You can negotiate. I heard that someone else spent 90 USD on a smaller tattoo.
Tattoo by Apo
A lot of people line up every day to see Apo. A good guide will help you get a spot in line. The tattoo itself only takes about two minutes, and then you can take a photo with her. Most people bring a gift for her—she likes red lipstick.
The cost of the tattoo from Apo is 300 PHP plus 150 PHP for the thorn.
Important Information
Give yourself some extra time in your schedule. We were lucky to have an extra day, since we didn’t know Apo would be away. If we hadn’t been flexible, we might have missed our chance to get a tattoo from her.
Bring enough cash with you. We didn’t, so we had to pay by PayPal, but you can’t always rely on that. Some stores take GCash, but make sure to download and set it up before you arrive, since you won’t be able to do it over wifi there.
Bring your own snacks, as meals mostly consist of white rice served three times a day, and extra food options may incur additional charges.
There is no Cell Service, but there is wifi that you need to pay for.
