Tattoo

Bontoc in the Philippines is the last major town before Apo Whang-Od’s remote village of Buscalan.

Apo Wang-Od, a 108-year-old mambabatok, is the oldest tattoo artist in the world. She lives in the remote village of Buscalan in the Philippines and has practiced batok, the traditional hand-tapped tattooing, since her teens.

Map of Bontoc

Myrna Hotel – It was simple but clean, and our room had two twin beds. They don’t offer luggage storage, so we booked three nights to keep our bags safe while we visited Buscalan. We just took a daypack for the hike. Although we planned to stay only one night in the village, we ended up needing two. The hotel staff were understanding when we explained the situation and let us check out late.

Restaurants

Jegalá– We got caught in a monsoon and found shelter in this small restaurant. We asked for a beer, which they did not have, but the owner sent her daughter across the street to buy us some. They were very sweet.

Samokey Coffee House – Tricky to find, but the Teriyaki chicken bowl was fresh and delicious. Google Maps shows it on the main street, but it’s actually down a small path. Just ask a local for help—someone helped us find it.

Evelyn’s Bakeshop– On the main street near the bus station. Offers baked goods, burgers, and pizza. Great spot for bus snacks.

Sayong Malunggay Pandesalan – The cheese bread is fresh and so yummy. It isn’t a real store, but a small bakery on the street where they are baking the bread. If you put the name in Google Maps, it brings you to the wrong place, so follow my map. 

Things to Do

Bontoc Public Market – Nice produce in the morning. It is across from Evelyn’s Bakeshop.

Bontoc Museum – If you are into history, this museum gives you insight into the surrounding tribes of the region.

Hanging Coffins of Sagada– We did not go, but it is a day trip. It is too far for a Trike to take you. The bus does stop there, but please check the times since it only runs twice a day.

Hike through the Rice Fields: Walk along the right side of the river toward the edge of town, and you’ll find a swinging bridge. It doesn’t look like it’s in use, but you can cross it. From there, a path leads through the rice fields. Even if you’re not up for a hike, the bridge is worth seeing.

Miscellaneous

FLC SPECIALTY CLINIC (Medical Clinic) – I got cellulitis from my tattoo in Buscalan. I hope this doesn’t happen to you, but just in case, I’m including this medical clinic. It was clean and inexpensive. I saw a provider, got a tetanus shot, and a week of antibiotics for $16.

Want more information about getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od? Transportation/FAQ’s/Buscalan

Buscalan Village, home to 108-year-old tattoo artist Apo Wang Od, sits high in the Philippine mountains and is only accessible on foot. We spent two days there waiting for our tattoo from her.

This is part of my complete guide to getting a tattoo from Apo Whang Od.

Where should you stay in Buscalan?

Our guide Francis arranged Buscalan Grandzion Homestay, run by Apo’s niece Anna. We found our guide in this Facebook group. We slept on provided mattresses, with sheets and blankets, and used a fan, a shared Eastern-style toilet (bring tissues), and an outlet. The fan kept us cool in June. Two nights with food and internet cost $43.79.

Where should I eat?

Watch out for extra charges. We thought our stay included all meals, but it turned out that wasn’t true. On our first night, we saw a pot of white rice, instant noodles, and watercress on the table. Since everyone was eating, we just took a little so there would be enough for the family. The next day, there was more rice available throughout the day. That night, they served more rice and crispy fish heads. I was already tired of rice, so I just had a little to be polite, but skipped the fish heads.

As we were about to leave, our guide handed us a bill for the food. We were surprised because we thought meals were included, but we were charged for noodles, watercress, and fish heads, even though we didn’t eat or ask for them. Make sure to ask your guide exactly what meals and items are covered so you don’t get caught off guard.

What is there to do in Buscalan Village?

We stayed in Buscalan Village for two nights. There isn’t much to do, so bring a book or some cards to pass the time. We walked through a rice field with our guide, Francis, but mostly just sat around, drank coffee, and waited for Apo to come back. Some parts of the village have paid wifi, but it’s not strong enough for streaming. There are a few small souvenir stands, but no restaurants.

Tattoo by her nieces

While we waited for Apo, we got tattoos from her nieces. You can pick from certain designs or even mix them. The women in Buscalan have geometric tattoos on their arms, with older women also tattooed on the chest and neck. Most men have no tattoos. 

My tattoo was 75 USD. You can negotiate. I heard that someone else spent 90 USD on a smaller tattoo. 

Tattoo by Apo

A lot of people line up every day to see Apo. A good guide will help you get a spot in line. The tattoo itself only takes about two minutes, and then you can take a photo with her. Most people bring a gift for her—she likes red lipstick.

The cost of the tattoo from Apo is 300 PHP plus 150 PHP for the thorn.

Important Information

Give yourself some extra time in your schedule. We were lucky to have an extra day, since we didn’t know Apo would be away. If we hadn’t been flexible, we might have missed our chance to get a tattoo from her.

Bring enough cash with you. We didn’t, so we had to pay by PayPal, but you can’t always rely on that. Some stores take GCash, but make sure to download and set it up before you arrive, since you won’t be able to do it over wifi there.

Bring your own snacks, as meals mostly consist of white rice served three times a day, and extra food options may incur additional charges.  

There is no Cell Service, but there is wifi that you need to pay for. 

• Cost
• Packing List
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Transportation
• Bontoc, Philippines
• Map of Important Locations

Apo Whang-Od, a 108-year-old mambabatok, is the oldest tattoo artist in the world. She lives in the remote village of Buscalan in the Philippines and has practiced batok, the traditional hand-tapped tattooing, since her teens.

If you’re planning to get a tattoo from Apo Whang Od, this guide explains exactly how we reached her village. I’ve included my Google map with photos showing where to catch each ride. Since we couldn’t find this info anywhere, I hope the map makes your trip smoother.

Transportation Options 

The route has greatly improved over the past decade. With revenue from tourism, the village built a bridge over the river, eliminating a 30-minute hike. Road conditions have also improved. 

There are pros and cons to these changes. It is great that the village has funds to make improvements to their way of life, but it is now possible to pay a lot of money for a direct shuttle from Manila, which gets you there in the morning and takes you back the same night.

We chose the budget option, which allowed us to experience the village and local life. We arrived on Sunday, aiming for a Monday tattoo, but Apo was away at a family reunion until the next night. Because we could stay longer, we waited. Those who took the direct Manila shuttle couldn’t wait and left without a tattoo.

Our route

1. Manila to Bontoc – Bus (12 Hours)

Cost: $52.32 Round Trip

We took a 12-hour overnight bus from Manila to Bontoc. The bus had a bathroom, and there were several stops for food and restroom breaks. Be prepared for winding roads, which can cause motion sickness.

2. Bontoc to Bugnay (Police Check Point) – Jeepney (1 Hour)

Cost: 150 PHP per person, one way. Pay the driver directly.

We took a Jeepney from Bontoc to the Police Checkpoint in Bugnay to meet our guide. The Jeepney left from the Mountain Province State University in Bontoc. If you are looking at the building, the bus you need is parked in the alley to the right. It left at 0700, 0900, and 1300, but this seemed to depend on how full the jeepney was. Our 0700 bus left around 0730. 

3. Bugnay to Buscalan – Walk (3.5 miles) 

Cost: 150 PHP (Tourist Tax)

We walked three miles to Buscalan and recommend this choice for the experience and savings, though others took motorbikes or vans. 

Just before the bridge to the village, you stop to pay the 150 PHP tourist tax. Be sure to sign the book. This is where the road ends. Everyone has to walk the last half-mile to Buscalan. Locals use a “tram” if you’re feeling adventurous.

Important Thing to Know

We reserved three nights at a hotel in Bontoc to store our luggage. We only hiked with a small daypack, a change of clothes, and basic toiletries. See my packing list. 

Be prepared to stop for coffee with locals—it can be rude to decline, but it may lengthen your journey. We even met Apo’s brother over coffee. 

Now that you know how to get there, check out my guides to Buscalan, Bontoc and common FAQs. 

More Information

• Cost
• Packing List
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Bontoc, Philippines
• Buscalan Village
• Map of Important Locations