Destinations

How to Get to the Village of Apo Whang-Od

How to Get to Apo Whang-Od’s Village

Apo Whang-Od, a 108-year-old mambabatok, is the oldest tattoo artist in the world. She lives in the remote village of Buscalan in the Philippines and has practiced batok, the traditional hand-tapped tattooing, since her teens.

If you’re planning to get a tattoo from Apo Whang Od, this guide explains exactly how we reached her village. I’ve included my Google map with photos showing where to catch each ride. Since we couldn’t find this info anywhere, I hope the map makes your trip smoother.

Transportation Options 

The route has greatly improved over the past decade. With revenue from tourism, the village built a bridge over the river, eliminating a 30-minute hike. Road conditions have also improved. 

There are pros and cons to these changes. It is great that the village has funds to make improvements to their way of life, but it is now possible to pay a lot of money for a direct shuttle from Manila, which gets you there in the morning and takes you back the same night.

We chose the budget option, which allowed us to experience the village and local life. We arrived on Sunday, aiming for a Monday tattoo, but Apo was away at a family reunion until the next night. Because we could stay longer, we waited. Those who took the direct Manila shuttle couldn’t wait and left without a tattoo.

Our route

1. Manila to Bontoc – Bus (12 Hours)

Cost: $52.32 Round Trip

We took a 12-hour overnight bus from Manila to Bontoc. The bus had a bathroom, and there were several stops for food and restroom breaks. Be prepared for winding roads, which can cause motion sickness.

2. Bontoc to Bugnay (Police Check Point) – Jeepney (1 Hour)

Cost: 150 PHP per person, one way. Pay the driver directly.

We took a Jeepney from Bontoc to the Police Checkpoint in Bugnay to meet our guide. The Jeepney left from the Mountain Province State University in Bontoc. If you are looking at the building, the bus you need is parked in the alley to the right. It left at 0700, 0900, and 1300, but this seemed to depend on how full the jeepney was. Our 0700 bus left around 0730. 

3. Bugnay to Buscalan – Walk (3.5 miles) 

Cost: 150 PHP (Tourist Tax)

We walked three miles to Buscalan and recommend this choice for the experience and savings, though others took motorbikes or vans. 

Just before the bridge to the village, you stop to pay the 150 PHP tourist tax. Be sure to sign the book. This is where the road ends. Everyone has to walk the last half-mile to Buscalan. Locals use a “tram” if you’re feeling adventurous.

Important Thing to Know

We reserved three nights at a hotel in Bontoc to store our luggage. We only hiked with a small daypack, a change of clothes, and basic toiletries. See my packing list. 

Be prepared to stop for coffee with locals—it can be rude to decline, but it may lengthen your journey. We even met Apo’s brother over coffee. 

Now that you know how to get there, check out my guides to Buscalan, Bontoc and common FAQs. 

More Information

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How to Get a Tattoo from Apo Whang-Od

How to Get a Tattoo From Apo Whang-Od

Apo Wang-Od is the oldest tattoo artist in the world. At 108 years old, she has been doing the batok, the traditional hand-tapped tattooing, since her teens.

We headed into the mountains of the Philippines to her remote village of Buscalan to meet Apo and hopefully get her signature tattoo. 

We started in Manila and took a 12-hour bus to Bontoc, where we got a Jeepney for 1 hour to Bugnay. There, we met our guide Francis. From there, we hiked 3.5 miles to her Village. We spent two nights in the village waiting to meet Apo. While we were waiting, we got tattooed by her nieces. Her nieces have learned the technique from Apo. 

After two days in the village of Buscalan, we were able to meet Apo Wang-Od and get her signature tattoo, three dots. The three dots symbolize the continuation of the traditional Kalinga tattooing art form across three generations.

Here you will find all the information you need to plan your trip to meet the legendary Apo Whang-Od. 

FAQ’s

What is the Batok tattoo process?

A geometric design is drawn using a piece of grass dipped in the ink, a mix of charcoal and water. Then, a thorn from a Pomelo tree is dipped in the ink and hammered into the skin using two bamboo sticks.

Do I need a guide to get to Buscalan Village? 

Yes, a guide is necessary. We found Francis through the Tattood By Apo Whang-Od Facebook group and highly recommend him. After two days of waiting, we could not extend our stay any longer, but Francis persuaded Apo to tattoo us. We were the only two people to get a tattoo that day.

How do I get to Buscalan Village?

Read about our journey here.

How much does the trip cost?

Here is the complete cost breakdown.

Can I make an appointment to get a tattoo by Apo Whang-Od?

No. You won’t know if she’s tattooing until you arrive. During our visit, she attended a family reunion and returned the next night. We extended our stay to wait. One person waited three days, so be flexible. 

What should I pack?

Packing List

What is Buscalan like?

Read all about it here.

Can you use credit cards in Buscalan Village?

No, credit cards are not accepted. They did take PayPal because we were desperate. They had to call a friend who had an account, so don’t rely on it. Some souvenir shops accept G-Cash, but set up your account in advance, since cell service is needed for registration.

Is there cell service or wifi available?

There is no cell service, but several areas in the village offer paid wifi. The connection supports basic internet service, but don’t expect to be able to stream.

Is there an ATM in Buscalan?

No. The last ATM is in Bontoc.

Was it worth getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od?

Absolutely. Even just seeing the village and meeting its people makes the trek worthwhile.

Is it safe to get a batok tattoo from Apo?

You can’t sterilize a tree thorn. Bring wipes and alcohol pads to clean it and your skin. Most people have no issues. It takes up to a year before the tattoo heals.

All of that said, I developed cellulitis on my arm from my tattoo, but I was able to go to a clinic in Bontoc and get oral antibiotics, It healed fine. Be sure your tetanus vaccine is current.

Cost Breakdown

  • Bus to Bontoc (round trip): 3000 PHP
  • Jeepney from Bontoc to Buscalan: 150 PHP (one way, pay driver)
  • Tattoo from Apo: 300 PHP
  • Thorn: 200 PHP
  • Tattoo from family: 3500 – 6000 PHP (negotiable, depends on design)
  • Guide: 3850 PHP (for 2 nights, including tip)
  • Homestay with food: 1245 PHP (for 2 nights, including food)
  • Souvenirs (shirt and sticker): 650 PHP

Packing List

  • Passport photos and stickers – To put on the walls of the homestead and at the entrance to Buscalan village
  • Towel – Sometimes towels are provided, but there is a possibility that one will not be available
  • Toilet paper – If you are not used to Eastern-style toilets
  • Gifts for the children of the Village – ie, candy, bubbles, games
  • Gift for Apo – She loves red lipstick and nail polish
  • Razor – If you are getting the tattoo in an area with hair
  • Travel pillow and blanket – The bus can get cold
  • Book/Download Media – To entertain yourself while you are waiting for your turn
  • Sani wipes/Alcohol Pads – To clean your skin and thorns before the tattoo
  • Second Skin – To put on after the tattoo
  • Cash (see below) 

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What I Wish I’d Known Before Traveling to Southeast Asia

What I Wish I’d Known Before Traveling to Southeast Asia

Culture shock is both the best and most challenging part of traveling. I often catch myself wondering, “Why doesn’t the US do this?” or “Why is this different?” Completing everyday tasks in a foreign country, such as buying toiletries and sending mail, gives me the biggest sense of accomplishment. There are certain travel tips I learned that helped me along my travels in Southeast Asia. Disclaimer: Southeast Asia is vast, encompassing hundreds of different cultures. These are my personal observations, not universal truths.

Lotions Have Skin Lighteners

In many Asian countries, you’ll notice women wearing sweatshirts, masks, and pants to avoid the sun. Lighter skin is often considered more desirable, so many lotions are labeled as “brighteners” and contain ingredients intended to lighten skin. Just a heads up if, like me, you love having a tan. 

Most of the World Does Not Use Toilet Paper. 

Everybody poops. The difference is where and how. In Southeast Asia, you’ll find both squat and Western-style toilets. Instead of toilet paper, you’ll usually see a sprayer or hose. I’m a fan of bidets, but I still need to dry off. Bring toilet paper with you everywhere, but don’t flush it—use the waste bin instead.

Pro Tip: If you don’t see a flush, look for a bucket. Fill the bucket with water and pour it down the hole or into the toilet bowl. It may take several buckets, but it will go down.

Pro Tip: In the Philippines, bathrooms are referred to as Comfort Rooms.

Travel Trips for Southeast Asia
Bathroom Rules
Phillipines Comfort Rooms
Sign for Toilet in the Philippines

Bread Products are Usually Sweet.

Think Hawaiian Rolls. I have a sweet tooth, so I loved it. The majority of sliced bread or bread products are sweetened. Baguettes prove the exception. 

Download the Native Keyboard.

Thanks to Oli for this tip! On a food tour, I wanted to remember the names of new dishes. Instead of writing them in English and using Google Translate later, I handed my phone to my Cambodian guide, who used the Khmer keyboard. Brilliant! If you’re not tech-savvy, don’t worry—it’s an easy setting on your phone. 

Street food in Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Street Food
Hoi An, Vietnam
Hoi An, Vietnam

You Don’t Need A Voltage Converter for USB Charging

Here’s a secret: I don’t travel with a universal adapter. 

A voltage converter isn’t required for USB charging. Plug your USB cords into any USB port worldwide—your phone, watch, and computer are good to go, no matter the country. 

Many places now have USB ports. If not, make sure your wall charger matches the local plug type. In Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Thailand, standard 2-prong US plugs work just fine. 

Pro Tip: It is becoming more common for hotels in tourist areas to have a universal plug type. 

What if your device cannot use a USB cord? For me, only my hairdryer and straightener need regular plugs. Most accommodations (99%) provide a hair dryer. I make sure my straightener is dual-voltage (supports both 110V and 220V).  

Here’s a great, straightforward guide to plug types by country.

Late Check-Out and Early Check-In.

In the US, check-out usually occurs at 10 or 11 am, but in Southeast Asia, it’s commonly noon, and check-in is often at 2 pm. I found this throughout Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia.

Every Country has Ride-Sharing and Food Delivery.

Grab is the most common ride and food delivery app. In Laos, it’s Loca. Indonesia uses Grab and GoJek. Besides cars, you can easily schedule a tuk-tuk or scooter, all through the apps. 

ATM’s are Everywhere, But Cash is King. 

ATMs are everywhere. Even in rural areas, you will see a random ATM on the side of the road. More places now accept credit cards, but usually with a 3% fee, so cash still rules.

Cambodia

Until recently, Cambodia used the US dollar more than its own currency. You can still get both USD and Cambodian Riel from ATMs, and prices are listed in dollars. Lately, Cambodia has been moving away from the USD, but prices remain in dollars. You can pay in either currency, but expect your change in Riel. Pro tip: Only crisp, undamaged USD bills are accepted. They prefer smaller bills.

Travel Tips for Southeast Asia
ATM in Cambodia
Travel Tips for Southeast Asia
Random ATM
Travel Tips for Southeast Asia
More Street Side ATM’s

Southeast Asians Love Their Outdoor Workouts. 

Some parks in the US have outdoor gym equipment, but few people use it. In Southeast Asia, these workout areas fill up in the evening with people of all ages. Groups often meet in parks for an organized workout.

Use Your Phone’s Calculator for Currency Conversions

Game-changer! Many mobile calculator apps have a “Convert” or “Currency” mode. On your iPhone, open your calculator app and tap the calculator icon at the bottom left to access “Convert”, then choose the currency.

Pay for Accommodation Upon Check-Out. 

In many Western countries, you pay for accommodation upfront, but in Southeast Asia, it’s common to pay when you check out. 

The best advice I can share: add Southeast Asia to your bucket list. From taking a night bus in Vietnam to exploring Vientiane, Laos, this region has become my favorite place to travel. 

Ninh Binh, VIetnam
Ninh Binh, Vietnam

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